Our winters are genuinely cold, and that changes the math on repair versus replacement. A steel door from the 1970s with no insulation, a bowed bottom panel, and a spring that's already been replaced once is usually a door we'd tell you to retire rather than patch again - the labor to keep chasing failures on a 50-year-old panel adds up faster than a new door would cost.
On the other hand, a 1990s or 2000s door with a single broken spring or a failed opener board is almost always worth fixing. The track is straight, the panels are sound, and the rest of the hardware has years left in it.
We won't talk you into a full replacement if a $97,784 median household income area homeowner just needs a cable re-strung or a sensor realigned - that's a 20-minute fix, not a sales pitch. But we also won't keep billing you for repeat spring jobs on a door that's past the point of being worth saving. If we think you're there, we'll say so plainly before we start work.